Peak 5804 (near Mormon Mts, NV)

I first saw this peak from Moapa almost 16 years ago. Tracy and I went to Davidson to get zoom photos, and I was not greatly encouraged, since I knew what looked like a relatively easy E ridge, would likely be composed of big blocks. But slightly behind the apparent ridge was a series of cliffs often cut by hidden class 3 gullys. When all looked impossible, we traversed, heading somewhat down, then up to a nasty class 5 chimney (with incoveniently-placed sharp bushes) and broke through the last cliff band. If I had to do it again, I might have tried to belay people over the wall just W of the chimney, though suitable anchors were not guaranteed. As it was we anchored off a bush with a 6" trunk at top of the chute. LOOSE ROCK DANGER. This is a cool-weather peak.

Thanks to my wonderful friends Anji, Bart and Tracy for being so cheerful and helpful.

Harlan W S & Anji C
Saturday, March 09, 2019

Location map. Dirt road for Carp-Elgin is usually excellent.	Close-up of domical summit block. There may be a route on SW ridge, but the smooth-looking 40' contours are deceiving.	5804 as seen from Moapa Peak to SW. What appears to be a relatively gentle slope on R is actually an arete composed of small near-vertical 5-40' blocks.
5804 viewed from the south	Tracy heads in.	The first gully
Tracy finds safe route around slippery stream	This prominent peak to S looks class 2-3	Intrepids below
Intrepids below	Saddle (same is seen in view from Moapa)	Bart is down there
View ~NW, line shows path down, then up, then across up steep ramp to crux, a somewhat hidden chimney. After I placed a handline in the crux, I returned to my compatriots.		After the traverse, we head up to bottom of crux. Pic by Anji. Cairn (which I placed) same as in 2 photos back.
Pic by Anji	Pic by Anji. I am L at bottom of crux, Bart climbs to base. I climbed crux again, and belayed Bart and Anji.	Bart belays Tracy in the crux. I was very grateful Bart came along, as I am too light to belay Tracy, and by this point I was really tired. Bart tied a critical extra loop in the handline.
	More belaying
Tracy gets up. Anji pic	Anji's pic of me E of crux	The top is domical and anti-climatic. No survey tower, no cairn. Elevation on map is likely from aerial photogrammetry.
Mormon Mts to W	Moapa Pk to SW
	Castellated Mormon Peaks	Snow-covered Virgin Mts in distance
Not sure this peak has a non-technical route. Don Palmer may have climbed it.	Anji raps the crux. I had preset my camera and snapped the pic with one hand while the other controlled the rope. I'm not a big fan of taking pics while belaying	Anji's pic of me belaying Tracy
We were able to walk W of this cliff	Ani prepares to descend, to her R...	...is this cairn
Ani spots Bart climbing below cairn		Team work
Mt Davidson to E	Anji saw a route down another canyon	Tracy and Bart at top of descent route
Anji looks back at saddle, 5804 at L	Interesting rocks in saddle	Anji pic of me
Anji picks our route on the ridge	Anji	Anji
From below, it doesn't look hard!