Hackberry Dome, 6049' in Mormon Mts., NV
Pics by Harlan W S
April 17, 2021
This is not a first known ascent; we found two bolts just above the
sheer
north face, and there was a rough cairn but no register at the summit.
I never found a bolted rappel anchor, but there is a sturdy
6"-diameter conifer at the top of east-facing gully (you will see it
south of the arete route; we didn't rap, so I don't know how much rope
one would need for the gully).
I'd call this
class 3+, with the "plus" mainly for a few spots of very significant
exposure and untested rock. As one starts the gully, there are one or
two spots where one has to creep around a corner of questionable rock,
with a need to keep a good part of one's weight hanging out-- some would
call that class 4. The fact that a slip above the top-out bolts would
cause certain death, would also bias one to a higher rating (by one
definition of cl 4).
The rock is extremely grippy siliceous dolostone. We
pruned a lot of loose rocks off the route, but I'm sure more will
appear every spring.
To get to 6049, take the Hackberry
Springs Rd to the parking (2wd), go
about 2 miles up the gully, then cut left out of the wash to the
plateau on the E side of the peak. Head west, then to the R (N) side at
the base of the brownish cliff band. Start at the R side of the shallow
gully, climb ~8' and traverse L ~10', then cut back R to the arete.
Climb the arete until a slab opens up on the R. Either take the steep
slab, or climb the exposed steep cliff at L (we took the slab).
I've had brain damage and no true balance since 2002, and I have no
depth perception; Tracy has had clinical Parkinson's since 2013. With
gusts of 30+ mph plus on the arete, we decided caution was in order.
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