Castle Peaks CA (Dove and South Dove)

Harlan W S + Richard N
Nov 09, 2012

Previous trip is here.

0CastleCA
The day started windy
and with snow flurries. 
We revisited Dove
Benchmark, then traversed
east to look at the scary
fin (#1 peak), then climbed
#2 (called "South Dove"
by Branch Whitney).
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Skies were leaden
gray and cold when
we started. We will 1st
 go to Dove Benchmark,
then traverse east
of #2 to Scary Fin (#1),
then climb South Dove
(#2) from the W and N.
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I start off on the Dove
crux. The hardest
task is to get onto
the brown-pink tuff;
there is an overhang.
It is crucial to
find a good place to
put your left foot.
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Then one uses a
combination of knobs
from conglomerate
clasts, and the crack,
as holds to reach a
shelf 20' above the
deck.  Note face on
my left, seen from above
in the photo below.
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I dropped a handline
from the current sling;
unfortunately, there
seems to be no anchor
that falls directly over
the crack.  Here Kevin
uses the handline as
minor protection.
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Richard came more
directly up the "left face."
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View SW from Dove
BM. The route
up "South Dove" (#2)
 is shown in blue.
Scary Fin (#1) is behind #2.
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View NE of Dove BM,
to North Castle Butte.
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Now I'm down-climbing,
using the handline.
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Next Kevin down-climbs
more directly.
(Photo by Richard)
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My view of Kevin.
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This view of Richard
down-climbing
gives a good idea
of the crux.
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Now we head E and S.
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Hart Peak in distance.
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We traverse the E
side of #2, with
Scary Fin (#1) at L.
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SW edge of Scary Fin.
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Now Richard is on
the crux of #2. He went
directly up the gully;
I went to the R
and around the corner.
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Near top of #2;
Dove BM is at L,
North Castle Butte is
behind.
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Scary Fin from #2.
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I came down the same
way I went up;
but Kevin and Richard
hand-lined down the
class 4 creepy gully.  My
way was pretty creepy
too-- very bad exposure.
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#2 at L, #1 at R.
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