Klothos Temple (AZ), Picacho (CA, 3x), and Little Picacho (CA)

Harlan W S, CP, and Kathy W
February 14-16, 2015

I originally wanted to make this a Picacho reunion of the Trona Firepit group, but I just couldn't coordinate everyone.  For Picacho we had a great trip with 6 folks, all of whom did well.  Most of us ended the day early, as unseasonably hot weather had pushed the T to 91F by 1PM... but Dagmar and Craig continued on up Little Picacho, and gave welcome beta to me, DB and CP for next day's trip.  Big props to CP for help with belaying.

First day we went to the
Muggins Wilderness in AZ,
east of Yuma. CP had just
been to Muggins, so we picked
Klothos Temple for our hike.
I was able to get my vehice all
the way down ino the wash,
but decided it would be far more
practial to stay at the 2wd  TH.
The shade of the BLM sign fell
on my cab and made the evening
quite comfortable. CP & DB pulled
in about 7PM and were so quiet
I never really woke up.
Next morn we tried the ridge...
...we got to the top of this lump,
but saw 2 more nasty lumps on
the ridgeline...
...so we descended back 300'
to pick up the "normal" route
That's the summit, beyond the
DSCN8795_stitch DSCN8799_stitch DSCN8800
On top!  Lots on agriculture
in the valley to W.
View SSE to Muggins.
You can see the 2 lumps
we avoided on Klothos ridge.
DSCN8803 DSCN8804_stitch
DSCN8806 DSCN8808_stitch DSCN8822
Muggins in back
DSCN8823 DSCN8823a
Next day we went back
for Picacho N of Yuma.
We had a pleasant eve
in the shade of a cliff.
Rose glow on E face of Picacho.
Well, the exact DPS wording is:
 "somewhat exposed 15 foot
face of Class 3 rock." The place
indicated on N side of false
summit, is where I'm belaying
Dagmar in the later part of this TR.
We knew it would be a
warm day, but we were in
shade on the W side
of the peak.
View S from below notch
between E and W summits.
View N through notch to
true USGS "Little Picacho."
Dagmar and Craig went to
Little Picacho that afternoon,
CP, DB & I waited till next
DSCN8834 DSCN8835 DSCN8837a-kw1
The step-across, photo
courtesy Kathy W.  I hopped
over. set up a rope from
the far side, and CP set up
a belay from the near side.
The belay may have been
unneeded, but plus bien
sauf que chagrin.
CP hops across after belays.
I've been up 3x, and consider this
climb (N side of false summit)
the creepiest place. Next time
I will have at least a catastrophic
belay from below. Once the leader
is up to belay folks below, it
doesn't seem that bad;  but the
rock is very steep and the
exposure is awful. Photo
courtesy Kathy W.
Photo courtesy CP.
DPS calls this:
"somewhat exposed 15
foot face of Class 3 rock."
The exposure is shown
above -- over 500. When I
saw this pic later, I was
mortified to realize Dagmar's
 belay was hooked over a rock.
Now CP belays with a
dynamic rope; DB clowns.
DSCN8851 DSCN8852
CP belays DB. The family
that belays together stays
Now we rap off the S side
of the false summit. I tied
a 9mm static line with a
figure 8 on a bight. and
attached it to a quicklink
on a hanger, so we would
have 2 stable lines for
DSCN8855 DSCN8857 DSCN8859
Dagmar is on top!
DSCN8861 DSCN8864 DSCN8864-kw3
Photo courtesy Kathy W.
Photo courtesy CP. I look
like an Ewok, Dagmar looks
like a fashion model.
I'm passing down the ascenders
for the next person.
View back over false summit,
as CP takes over belaying.
Craig pops over the lip.
I rapped back down to
give more instruction...
Then later did my 5th
ascent! Photo courtesy
Kathy W.
CP raps down on N side false
DB comes back across the gap.
Vulture on W summit, doing
a thermoregulation pose.
DSCN8887 DSCN8888
DSCN8889 DSCN8890 DSCN8890b
Next day CP, DB & I
went up Little Picacho
DSCN8891 DSCN8893 DSCN8895
I climbed an unnecessarily
hard section; DB and CP
found a class 2-3 way!
(Picture of route choices
There was one committing move,
actually easier on the way down.
CP belays DB.
True Picacho to S.
View NE
DSCN8901_stitch DSCN8903 DSCN8903b
Photo courtesy CP.
DSCN8905 DSCN8908_stitch DSCN8913
about 20-30' below the
one tough move.
route choices to shelf;
the harder move is out of sight,
at top of wall in back.
DSCN8917 DSCN8920
we got back when it was still cool.