White Rock Canyon Peak  & Fortress Buttes, AZ

I became a peakbagger stalker, unintentionally. My initial intent was to fix an anchor on Castle Tower. But as I came over Railroad Pass, I could see snow on my goal. So I headed down to these peaks in AZ, near Hoover Dam and visible on the main trail to Arizona Hot Springs. I didn't know White Rock Canyon Peak/Butte (WRCP or WRCB)  existed till I saw the name on peakbagger. While I took a difficult route to the summit block of WRCP, it looks like there is a class 2 route on the SW.  The summit block of WRCP is girdled by cliffs 40-100' high, and has a very committing move on rotten rock (class 4-5). Fortress Butte caught my attention in a 2012 trip, and Branch Whitney has a very nice class 2+ "B" cairned route on the northeast side; but be warned, there are some tecnically easy traverses with steep drops to the east.  Both peaks have very crumbly rock and are out of the question on wet days, and will be deathly hot most of the year.

Some hints about summit block of WRCP/B: 1) Don't go with wet or hot weather. 2) Bring a partner, preferably a tall/strong one. 3) Have partner spot you, perhaps even offer a shoulder/artifiical foothold assist. Then belay from 30' above. 4) Don't wear a pack for squeeze move on right side of chockstone. 5) Consider lassoing spires W (R) of chockstone with rope throw-bag, and attaching a prusik to harness.

Harlan W S

Monday, February 25, 2019

0map
Both Peaks are visible
from the trail to
Arizona Hot Springs.
The USGS topo map
is quite "off" and misleading
1map
Google Earth does a
bit better showing
the top of WRCP/B
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I'm travelling from the E,
looking at the E face of
WRCP/B. The route
I took to the summit block
is direct, but not safe; see
photos for class 2.
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Fortress Butte, 2nd peak
of day
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I found this chute on
NW side of summit
block. There is a very
committing move on W
side of chute, just
below a chockstone.
I actually went up the
chute twice, and the 2nd,
some of the footholds
crumbled.
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i-11/93 and Tillman
Bridge visible to N
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Various shots from
summit; view S
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Fortress Butte
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SE, Wilson AZ in back
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attempt at selfie
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My chosen rap spot on
NW side, about 50'. The
anchor was farther back
from edge than I would like,
and currently uses 4000 lb
spliced and sewn Dyneema.
The quicklink is small but
5000 lb BS.
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Bottom view of rap.
On the first pull, there
was a subtle overhand
knot (see cross-over
near top) that tied itself
to the quicklink, so I had
to climb back up.
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The other spot I
investigated.  Maybe
for a taller person (I'm
5' 6"). I started up and
the holds broke free,
giving me an ultra-
cautious downclimb.
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R of this potential
route is a very spooky
drop into a steep gully.
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A random spire
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This is a mini-arch,
and illustrates the
fragile nature of the
volcanic conglomerate.
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View back N as I
descend canyon to
Fortress Butte. WRCP
at left
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As I started to climb
Fortress Butte, I realized
my (light blue) route was
unnecessarily hard
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A key corner on the
"B" route up Fortess.
This is the easier of
two Branch Whitney
routes...
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... but still has notable
exposure on crappy,
crumbling rock.
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Snowy Spring Mts
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Wilson AZ to E
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Fartification Hill
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The top of FB is large,
I cannot cross oer.
Neither have I,
wings to fly.
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Colorado R
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Descending FB
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FB from AZ Springs
trail.  Note backpacker.

Sometimes we forget intentionally.