Beer & Ice, and Two Other Peaklets (Red Rock CNCA, Nevada)

Harlan W S + CP
Oct 15, 2014

I remembered two friends talking about their epic trip to Beer & Ice Peak (which is actually at the top of Stick Gully) way back in  2003, on a route involving several raps down. CP had tried to find a similar route in 2005, with some hairy climbing under a 60' chockstone, but had to turn back before the summit.

So in October 2014, CP and DB went up "gully 3" and realized they must be near Beer & Ice Peak. I found an old slide show by Branch Whitney, and we figured out the last bits. So within 4 days, CP and DB were again going up Gully 3, this time with me in tow, for some interesting scramble problems on B&I. On the way down, we went up Eva's and Mikes Towers because... well... they were there! B&I was certainly the most interesting, but all peaklets had nice views.

We carried a 30m-long, 9.2 mm single rope, some extra webbing for slings, and 100' of 15mm webbing for a quickly-deployable handline. Gully 3 is normally used for descent; going up it is interesting in a few places. Everything on the summit block can be done without rope, but it is especially useful for the rap.

The "HLV-left" waypoint
marks the start of the "normal"
route to Eva's Tower. The SP
description seems to indicate
the "normal" route, but the
SP-left waypoint seems 400'
west. We actually went up
"Gully 3" (question marks
indicate poor GPS coverage
in Gully 3).
Approach; Bridge Point is
the highpoint, and the
red-topped ridge at L
is where one finds Eva's and
Mike's Towers.
CP and DB scrambling up
main wash, before Gully 3.
We will turn up L into Gully 3
in a few hundred feet.
This is the interesting
stem problem in Branch
Whitney's guide. Photo
by CP.
Now we are going up
Gully 3.
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This section is fairly steep,
and would be technical
without fixed rope. The rope
is ~11mm, and is too thick
for old-style ATCs. Photo
by CP.
More scrambling up
Gully 3...
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View to Rainbow from
notch W of Eva's Tower.
Wilson and Rainbow to S.
Now we are starting B&I.
CP found this "back way"
that cuts out the sketchy
traverse between points
A and B in the Branch
Whitney slide show.
This is the crack at point
C in the previously-mentioned
slide show.
CP is skilled but cautious;
DB belayed him and he put
in two pieces of protection.
DB climbs up. After seeing
my predecessors, and
noting the moves, I was able
to climb this unprotected.
However, I would advise
one to take at least 100' of
rope, and be prepared to
rap down.
Shot of me (by CP). We
avoided point D in the BW
slide show by climbing straight
up the crease above D.
Next one turns clockwise
feom D to E (where I am
sitting) and climbs a class 3+
crack with the aid of the
wall to climber's R.
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Ever-cautious CP put DB
on belay, and she took the
opportunity to climb on the
more exposed rock to
climber's L.
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On top! The huge wall of
Bridge Point is behind.
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View E.
View S.
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DB heads down over point E.
CP meat-anchored DB and
me for the rap, then slung a
bush with the rope before
descending crack in point C.
DB and I came off at L.
We climb back through
narrow crack; this crack
allowed us to avoid the
A-B traverse.
Now I'm on Eva's Tower,
looking at CP. CP/DB
waited while I went to Eva's
Tower, so he could take a
picture of me (next)...
And here I am on Eva's (pic
by CP).
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Next I went to Mike's Tower
(with a short mistake, between
following cairns to some
random rock). CP went to
Eva's-- this is he...
...and here is CP's picture of me
on Mike's Tower!
And then we start the long
truck back down Gully 3.
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CP and DB near the
"interseting stem" (they
took the route to R).
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Nomenclature, from a BLM
document. Eva's Tower
is indicated;; B&I is about
500' WNW from Eva's.