Beer & Ice, and Two other Peaklets

Beer & Ice, and Two Other Peaklets (Red Rock CNCA, Nevada)

Harlan W S + CP
Oct 15, 2014

I remembered two friends talking about their epic trip to Beer & Ice Peak (which is actually at the top of Stick Gully) way back in 2003, on a route involving several raps down. CP had tried to find a similar route in 2005, with some hairy climbing under a 60' chockstone, but had to turn back before the summit.

So in October 2014, CP and DB went up "gully 3" and realized they must be near Beer & Ice Peak. I found an old slide show by Branch Whitney, and we figured out the last bits. So within 4 days, CP and DB were again going up Gully 3, this time with me in tow, for some interesting scramble problems on B&I. On the way down, we went up Eva's and Mikes Towers because... well... they were there! B&I was certainly the most interesting, but all peaklets had nice views.

We carried a 30m-long, 9.2 mm single rope, some extra webbing for slings, and 100' of 15mm webbing for a quickly-deployable handline. Gully 3 is normally used for descent; going up it is interesting in a few places. Everything on the summit block can be done without rope, but it is especially useful for the rap.

The "HLV-left" waypoint marks the start of the "normal" route to Eva's Tower. The SP description seems to indicate the "normal" route, but the SP-left waypoint seems 400' west. We actually went up "Gully 3" (question marks indicate poor GPS coverage in Gully 3).	Approach; Bridge Point is the highpoint, and the red-topped ridge at L is where one finds Eva's and Mike's Towers.	CP and DB scrambling up main wash, before Gully 3.
We will turn up L into Gully 3 in a few hundred feet.	This is the interesting stem problem in Branch Whitney's guide. Photo by CP.	Now we are going up Gully 3.
	This section is fairly steep, and would be technical without fixed rope. The rope is ~11mm, and is too thick for old-style ATCs. Photo by CP.	More scrambling up Gully 3...
	View to Rainbow from notch W of Eva's Tower.	Wilson and Rainbow to S.
Now we are starting B&I. CP found this "back way" that cuts out the sketchy traverse between points A and B in the Branch Whitney slide show.	This is the crack at point C in the previously-mentioned slide show.	CP is skilled but cautious; DB belayed him and he put in two pieces of protection.
DB climbs up. After seeing my predecessors, and noting the moves, I was able to climb this unprotected. However, I would advise one to take at least 100' of rope, and be prepared to rap down.	Shot of me (by CP). We avoided point D in the BW slide show by climbing straight up the crease above D.	Next one turns clockwise feom D to E (where I am sitting) and climbs a class 3+ crack with the aid of the wall to climber's R.
	Ever-cautious CP put DB on belay, and she took the opportunity to climb on the more exposed rock to climber's L.

		On top! The huge wall of Bridge Point is behind.
		View E.
View S.
		DB heads down over point E.
CP meat-anchored DB and me for the rap, then slung a bush with the rope before descending crack in point C. DB and I came off at L.	We climb back through narrow crack; this crack allowed us to avoid the A-B traverse.	Now I'm on Eva's Tower, looking at CP. CP/DB waited while I went to Eva's Tower, so he could take a picture of me (next)...
And here I am on Eva's (pic by CP).
Next I went to Mike's Tower (with a short mistake, between following cairns to some random rock). CP went to Eva's-- this is he...	...and here is CP's picture of me on Mike's Tower!
And then we start the long truck back down Gully 3.		CP and DB near the "interseting stem" (they took the route to R).
		Nomenclature, from a BLM document. Eva's Tower is indicated;; B&I is about 500' WNW from Eva's.