Calico Peaks Big Loop

Harlan W.S. & Paula C. R.
Friday Nov. 09, 2018

This loop, over perhaps 10 peaklets, encircles Calico Basin, west of Las Vegas, NV. It is tough to get an accurate estimate of accumulated elevation gain, because the route involves clambering over and around huge boulders. On Google Earth the track comes in at 4200'+ gain, but since that app uses the USGS digital elevation model, and smooths over rough areas, that gain is probably an underestimate. The entire loop is about 11 miles.  For all but the very beginning and the last jog over Horse Peak, you will be off-trail, with some intense scrambling.  Don't do this loop unless the max temp at Red Springs will be 60F or below, or these is some compensating wind and cloud cover. It is easy to cache water in several locations along the way.


0map
The USGS topo map
is deceptive...
1rough
This is the section
between 2a and 2b on
the topo map; it is
composed of huge
boulders perched on
cliffs. Though the formal
peak prominence is ~150',
you cannot reach the peak
with <400' accum. gain.
2profile
This is the Google Earth
elevation profile, which
gives about 4200' accum.,
but which very likely
underestimates because
it is based on the USGS
digital elevation model.
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On top of Peak 1 on
the map, called
South Calico
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I'm on a nameless nubble,
viewing peak 2
(Calico Hills I). The
shortest route involves
a class 5 climb on
an overhanging ledge
on the SE corner.
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On way to peak 2,
Paula climbs up a
slot like a cat.
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We climb another
intermediate lump,
up a steep but steppy
chute on E sie
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S side of peak 2,
Paula rebags rope
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We then spiraled
around W side to
N of peak 2, where
there is a 10', very
steep but grippy wall
with a center crack.
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I climbed the crack then
anchored a handline. NOTE:
there is a class 2 chute to the
top! Just continue east
on this shelf, around
the corner.
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Once again Paula
quickly bags rope at
base of N wall
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The convoluted escape
to ENE involved this
very steep chute
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Paula's view back on
peak 2 (Calico I)
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A random view
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Paula prepares for
a pic on top of Peak 3
(Redbook). To the R
is the famous climbing
route where Randy G
died from a mis-tied
retrievable anchor.
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View N from Redbook; the
light tan peaks are S and N
Calico Tanks Peaks (L and R
respectively). There is a direct
way, but it is faster to climb
down the N side of Redbook.
These will be our peaks 4 and 5.
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Descending N side
Redbook.
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Now we head for a fun
climb up the slot on the
E side Calico II (S
Calico Tank Peak), our
Peak 4.
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We met Diane Wilson
and her crew (at R)
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Now we head up to
the slot. It's tricky
to find the correct
branch.
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There is some class 3+
climbing, but one
feels enclosed and "safe"
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View of Redbook
from slot
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There is a way around
this tight rabbit hole,
but it is easiest to
climb through
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A very tight but steppy
slot allows one to
escape the canyon.
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View W to some of the
features on S side of
Calico II (S Calico Tanks,
our peak 4)
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We'll take the easy way
today. This ravine
is usually filled with
water by spring.
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Paula comes up
our peak 4, view NNW
to Turtlehead.
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View NE to Kraft,
over dry tank.
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Folks at E end of
a dry big Calico Tank
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We're on top of peak 5
("North" Calico Tanks Pk),
view over Redbook and
South Calico
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Paula on our Peak 5,
RedCap (to be peak 6)
 in back. The way
over is not simple.
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Creepy corner
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Steep climb up a crack
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Red Cap actually has
two summits separated
by a deep cleft. Today
we'll go over both. The
limestone peak in back
is El Bastardo.
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I haven't seen water in
this tank since 2004.
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This is the entry to easy
way up E Red Cap peak.
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Our peaks 5 and 4
at R
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Paula on E Red Cap,
slightly higher W
summit in back.
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Paual climbs up wall
from valley bewteen
two summits. There is face
to my R that I'll
protect with a handline.
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Paula goes up
last crack to Red Cap
summit block.
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Top of Red Cap (our
peak 6), New Peak
is that gray mass in
back (will be peak 7)
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Paula heads W off
Red Cap summit block
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Paula's pic on me
heading off summit.
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White Gully route down
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Paula's view of me in
White Gully, Turtlehead
in back.
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Heading up New (to be our
7), view W to Red Cap
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Summit block New
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Paula's pic of me
en route to New
(peak 7)
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Red peaks in back
are 1,2,3
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Red Cap in back
of Paula
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Pointing to beach,
Kraft Mt in back
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Paula on sharp
crumbly rock of New
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More Paula on
surprisingly tricky
downclimb
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Now Paula comes up
W side Kraft (peak 8)
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Paula on peak 8
(Kraft); our peak 9
is Big Bird, the
quasi-technical 20'
boulder on the E summit
in back.
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Turtlehead in back
of Paula
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New (pk 7) from Kraft
(pk 8)
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ridge in back is rough,
steep-sided S Calico
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This is a big boulder
that Barb once free-
climbed and down-climbed
v-e-e-r-r-y carefully
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An intermediate
nubble we call "Parted
Pants Peak" after an
incident with Michelle
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Big Bird blends into
the chaos
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That's Big Bird, just
a big boulder
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The E side is maybe
75 degrees, and has
enough texture to
free-climb (IF YOU
ARE CAREFUL)
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Paula on top of Big
Bird, our peak 9
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I just arm-rapped
down. I know that
this is not ideal from,
but it works for me
because my arms are
strong enough, and I'd
rather not invert
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Oops. out of order.
I'm looking down
at Paula who just
batmanned down
peak 9
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Now we're on peak 10
(Horse) looking back
(L-R) at 3,4,5,6,7,8,9
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Top of Horse. I've
never been prouder
of a peak. I just
noticed that Paula's
shorts are shorter
than mine.
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Collateral damage:
catclaw marks