Cockscomb (& Mummy) over 18 years

Pics by Harlan W S & Nick N, June 16, 2003; and
Harlan W S, May 08, 2021

Sentimental again; I figured I should write this stuff down before I enter dotage.

Nick Nelson took me on a lot of trips after my brain damage in 2002, including some trips that were tough and pretty unusual back then. In June 2003, I asked Nick if he thought the LVMC would mind, if I horned in on their conditioning trip for Rainier -- they were going up by the standard Mummy scree route. Nick said, "hey, I'll take you on a route that will allow us to meet them on top!" So began a very interesting day. I was so thankful, I volunteered that we might try Cockscomb if we got done "early" with Mummy. At that time, the only published route up Cockscomb was a very indirect route by Branch Whitney (BW); his route involved starting at the Trail Canyon Junction, heading south, then dropping east 200' to avoid the east face, and climbing back up on talus. Nick took one look at the BW route and said, "we're not doing that, we'll cut directly up the east face." And so was born a the route I took yesterday, May 08, 2021 (or at least a part of it).

Our route up Mummy was by the south canyon, discovered by Ed F. a few years before.	Nick just after we left the North Loop Trail. Nick was 61 then; he'll be 80 this summer.	I've gone up or down this route at least 10x since; sometimes I hit this cave, sometimes not
One of 3 somewhat iffy sections on the way up	Very steep and occasionally slick limestone.
Cockscomb is the little peak in center view	Charleston from top of Mummy.	The LVMC group on top, as Nick convinces them to descend NE side and around by Raintree. More on that later!
I had just torn my R hamstring.	Luba and Jim E.
The steep chute (see map) still had some snow. Some of the LVMC folks were expecting a staid class 2 hike...	Mummy Nose at L	Bottom of chute
View back up chute
	I go ahead of the group and got a telephoto as they rounded the last section of NLT before Trail Canyon	After exploring, Nick and I topped Cockscomb by the totally uncairned diagonal route across the E face, no sign of prior use.
Nick was pretty tired by this time, but soon perked up.	I didn't have great flexibility then, but had more hair!	As we headed S to hit the next peak on the ridge, I realized there was a class 2 break in the cliffs; later in 2003, I took Alda, Val and Pierre up that way.
		Starting up S peak
	I stayed back to get pics of Nick	Nick, Griffith back L.
Heading down to Trail Canyon was "interesting." Nick wanted to follow a ridge, and that ended in cliffs.	The W side of the ridge was nice, but had utterly miserable talus.	We finally got down, after both running out of water!
So almost 18 years later, I started up Fletcher Canyon for a lung test loop.	Context for route	This is "Little Fletcher." I tagged it in 2010, it proves to have a brushy top.
I met about 8 people on the way to Fat Man's Misery, no more until end of day, when I saw 2.	On the way to FMM...	after FMM, the only snow I crossed all day.
	I decided to leave Fletcher Canyon and cut directly up steep talus.	I saw 2 rough cairns at the bottom of this crumbly outcrop.
A bit higher, now I'll find a break in cliffs. I actually spent some time looking for human remains; I was part of a search group in 2010.	View S to Cockscomb. Route is on L	The pass where one drops E slightly, to start the diagonal route E (R) across E Face. Nick and I found a xerox of BW's old instructions abondoned here.
A bit high, view S, looking for magic route I didn't find in 2010. Didn't find it in 2021.	Well, that doesn't look safe	On top! Mummy scree slope is totally dry.
Charelston has less snow than when I was on this same peak 3 days before.	Mummy Tummy (L), MJ Peak at R.	Griffith
Heading down.