Granite #1 (DPS) in Mojave, CA (2x)

Granite #1 (DPS) in Mojave, CA (2x).
This Time from South.

Harlan W.S. & Jodie S.
March 14, 2015

I first climbed Granite #1 in 2007, by the routes recommended in the DPS guide and Zdon. When I came back on a slightly different route, I was surpised to find a "No Trespassing" sign. I inquired with the Sweeney Reserve (run by University of California) and confirmed that the routes on the north side of the peak were indeed off-limits, and were being used for long-term wildlife and soil crust studies. They suggested climbing the peak from the South, via Willow Springs. Some friends had climbed up the wash from Willow Springs, and said it was a nightmare of catclaw and big boulders.

So we were off to look for a better way.

The blue tracks are the routes in took in 2007; the red tracks are for 2015. The west red ridge route is far better. I would start cutting up the ridge even earlier than we did.	The blue indicates the dirt roads to the TH.	Mojave Bluebell.
View S down wash, just before we started up.	Heading up ridge; very sharp peaks to SE.	on ridge, view S.
View SW, as Jodie climbs ramp to top of crux pinnacle (1832T on USGS map).	At very top of pinnacle, look over N edge and head down gully at L (W) side, past the big tree. This view is back UP gully, roughly S.	View S to crux pinnacle.
Granite Pinnacle ahead; on way up we skirted it on R side just below cliff.	View W from Granite #1
Mitchell and Edgar in distance.	View S to Granite Pinnacle; the monolith is at least 50' high.	Pic by Jodie, me on W side of pinnacle.
We went to the top, but I forgot to take a pic, as I immediately started scouting the route down. Here Jodie comes down the better way. I found this gully in 2007, but didn't find it in 2015 till the descent.	About to try the wash for descent. Doesn't look bad, does it?	Catclaw and boulder Hell.
I found a document describing the limits of the Sweeney Center land; but I could never find an online map.

Granite #1 (DPS) in Mojave, CA (2x).This Time from South.

Granite #1 (DPS) in Mojave, CA (2x).
This Time from South.