Granite #1 (DPS) in Mojave, CA (2x).
This Time from South.

Harlan W.S. & Jodie S.
March 14, 2015

I first climbed Granite #1 in 2007, by the routes recommended in the DPS guide and Zdon.  When I came back on a slightly different route, I was surpised to find a "No Trespassing" sign.  I inquired with the Sweeney Reserve (run by University of California) and confirmed that the routes on the north side of the peak were indeed off-limits, and were being used for long-term wildlife and soil crust studies.  They suggested climbing the peak from the South, via Willow Springs. Some friends had climbed up the wash from Willow Springs, and said it was a nightmare of catclaw and big boulders.

So we were off to look for a better way.

0granite
The blue tracks are the
routes in took in 2007; the
red tracks are for 2015.
The west red ridge route
is far better. I would start
cutting up the ridge even
earlier than we did.
1graniteroads
The blue indicates the dirt
roads to the TH.
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Mojave Bluebell.
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View S down wash, just
before we started up.
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Heading up ridge; very
sharp peaks to SE.
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on ridge, view S.
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View SW, as Jodie climbs
 ramp to top of crux pinnacle
(1832T on USGS map).
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At very top of pinnacle,
look over N edge and head
down gully at L (W) side,
 past the big tree. This view
is back UP gully, roughly S.
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View S to crux pinnacle.
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Granite Pinnacle ahead; on
way up we skirted it on R
side just below cliff.
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View W from Granite #1
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Mitchell and Edgar
in distance.
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View S to Granite Pinnacle;
the monolith is at least 50' high.
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Pic by Jodie, me on
W side of pinnacle.
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We went to the top, but
I forgot to take a pic, as I
immediately started scouting
the route down.  Here Jodie
comes down the better way. I
found this gully in 2007, but
didn't find it in 2015 till the
descent.
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About to try the wash for
descent. Doesn't look bad,
does it?
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Catclaw and boulder Hell.
sweeny
I found a document describing
the limits of the Sweeney
Center land; but I could never
find an online map.
thanks to Caltopo for map support