Island-in-the-Sky, Snow Canyon, Utah

Another Pandemic "unfinished business" trip! I was scheduled to go in 2013, but a kidney stone --of all things!-- cancelled that trip.

"Double A" graciously led, and took us on a route that required no rappels.  We had a friendly group of 5, with Tracy's nephew Spencer and Spencer's friend Ky, who were always ready for assists.  We took our time -- this is not a place to rush, there is so much beauty around, and ample opportunities to get lost.

This peak doesn't have much prominence, thanks to a "bridge" about 220' below the top, across Moss Canyon on the east side.  So if you are in to prominence lists, this is not for you.

There are several low class 5 sections, depending on choice of route. Double A and I used no ropes, but he dropped handlines for safety sake in perhaps 5 places.  I say that not as a matter of arrogance, but I like to check out routes myself without rope, since I'm short in stature, and people behind me get to see the limiters.

Pics by Harlan W S
December 11, 2020

00map
The traditional purple
route is available here.
Andy's red route is
a bit scattered from
the times I waited in
tunnels with no view
of the sky, so I lost
GPS sync.
 00map-context
Context map
 01
View SE to N end
of traverse
02
View NE to south end
 03
View S to N end
 04
Start in bushes
05
Sun starts hitting
Mts to N
 06 07
AA on 1st class 4
08
AA was going to rig
up a running belay, but
went for a handline
 09
Above that and to
climber's L is the
infamous squeeze,
tough on Tracy's
6'7" frame
 10
11
another set of steep
ramps. Loose sand
from climbers makes
it slippery.
 12
View S
 13
14 15 16
Fred Flinstone house
on summit table
17
The intrepids on
summit
 18
View N
 19
20
AA sets up a handline
 21
Down from that
handline
 22
This is top of
"Birth Canal," a
narrow chimney
with a tight exit
23 24
There were many
beautiful sandy
"fields" on top.
 25
More steep ramps
26 27
The narrow slot.
One can actually
avoid it with a
sketchy climb at
R (L as you approach
the slot). The bottom is
so narrow that you
have to stem across
about 1/2 of the way,
throw your pack ahead
and drop down.
 28
Tracy gets past
the critical point.
29
We took the crack
on skiers L of the
rap area
 30
...and went down
some ledges to
avoid the rap.
 31
32 33 34
35 36
This was the last
sketch area, actually
lots of holds.