Mummy (47x) via South Ridge and Charleston (41x) via Devil's Thumb

Harlan WS
July 16, 2016

I rarely make pages for local peaks, but this case was a little exceptional.  Matt, Jen and Kristen drove up late Friday night from southern California, and we met at 8AM Saturday. The idea was to help finish Matt's DPS list, with Mummy and Charleston. I convinced them I could make the trip more interesting than normal, and they readily agreed, even on 4 hours of sleep, and Matt coming off knee surgery. They all did well, with Jen running ahead like a mountain goat, and no one needing the safety lines. What makes this page different, is that all my buds took photos; usually I am on this route solo, or in the lead, or a meat anchor, so I rarely get dramatic pictures.

We started up the "South Ridge" of Mummy, a route shown to me by Nick Nelson  years ago (he 1st went with Ed Forkos).  Over the years the route has been modified, but I still go up the original cruxes. Then we went along the Mummy-Charleston ridge, hit the trail for a short bit, then went up the Devil's Thumb shortcut.  They graciously agreed I should take off down the trail alone, as I don't do to well after dark (that old brain damage thing).

2022 comment. I was a bit surprised when Matt wrote this up as "easy class 3." I distinctly remember him asking (with a somewhat disturbed look), "We aren't going DOWN this way, are we?" My view: if you are not willing to downclimb something, it is not class 3 (for you). When someone needs to take your pack, it may be harder than you remember.

0map
The route.  We took
the trail down.		 DSCN1919 DSCN1920
Jen on 1st class 3
DSCN1921
Mainly class 2
chute to base of wall		 DSCN1921k01
The wall. No one
needed the line.		 DSCN1921k01a
Matt. Jen
rocketed up
DSCN1921k02
Kristen starts		 DSCN1924
At top of wall		 DSCN1927
DSCN1927s01 DSCN1927s01a DSCN1928s02
Next crux. One
can avoid this
via dirty class 2
chute around
left corner.
DSCN1928s03
Challenge:
avoid knocking
off rocks		 DSCN1928t
My view
down at Matt		 DSCN1929
DSCN1930
Last set of
chutes		 DSCN1930s04
Kristen's pic
of Matt		 DSCN1931
Jen rockets up
DSCN1933
Kristen		 DSCN1934 DSCN1937
DSCN1937s04a
Charleston from
Mummy		 DSCN1938s05
Downclimbing
to class 3 chute,
which is really
class 2 with big
potential penalty		 DSCN1938s05a
Matt's shot. I was
often unaware of
Jen's humorous
poses.
DSCN1938s06
Kristen
downclimbs		 DSCN1938t DSCN1939
DSCN1940 DSCN1941
on the NLT for a bit		 DSCN1942
Resting at
Devil's Thumb
DSCN1943s07
Strange view!
I am actually
on cliff band
above Matt,
1st crux DT
shortcut		 DSCN1944
Again, no one
needs the line		 DSCN1944s07a
Matt on next crux
DSCN1946 DSCN1946s08a DSCN1948_stitch
View back
at Lee Peak
DSCN1952
Someone is ahead		 DSCN1952s08b DSCN1954
On top! Mack's
Peak just R of
Kristen, Sisters
R of that
DSCN1957_stitch DSCN1958s09 DSCN1959
View back
as I jog-stumble
back to car.