Mummy by South Chutes

This is the upper part of Branch Whitney’s “Mummy the Hard Way”.

Nick N first showed me this route in 2003. We met the LVMC group on the top, and the leader decided to go along with us down the NE side of Mummy. Nick and I later (that day) went back over Cockscomb ridge for a varied and interesting day.

Branch called parts of the route class 4. I guess I’d agree – there are easy holds, but most are dangerous, about to break off. Look hard for and use the safe holds.

Harlan W. S.
May 09, 2007



The route. Magenta dashed lines

are the traditional route.


The first part of the route is

over talus-covered slopes.


The first class 3+ is up this dryfall.

Looks bad, but the rock is

full of holds.





Steep section at 10900’; it is easiest

to cut right. The camera is pointed at 45.


Steep rock, but highly textured.

Cut left after this section. Once again,

the camera is pointing up.


Whew, looking back to






Near the top, one comes to this,

perched atop a big drop.


Hard to describe this photo: I held

out the camera at arms’ length,

and pointed it straight down that last

class 4.


I was implored to stop the “leave

business card” epidemic, so I

left this card begging people to

stop leaving cards.





Not bad for a crippled old fart, eh?


At top of 3rd class chute (not normal

route) on way off the west side.


View back to the 3rd class chute.

A downed tree trunk marks

the access, and there is

now a spur trail.





View SW on “traditional” descent,

though a bit close to the cliffs.


Cave Springs is running again!

I had to work that afternoon, so I ran

down the trail. Most people were

quite nice, but one fellow seemed

to be very angry that I should be

running. Why?