North Guardian Angel (NGA) again, to Scout for LVMC

pics by Harlan W.S. & M.A.H.
Oct 01, 2011

This was my second time up NGA. Ali graciously agreed to go with me, to put the route in realistic perspective before the LVMC trip in 2 weeks. Previously, I’d used no gear or rope; but now I was damn glad I had 120’ 9mm.

Google Earth view from the NE; the shape of NGA is softened by the imprecise digital elevation model.	Topo map of the hike from the Wildcat trailhead.	NGA south, from lookout point. We are looking perpendicular to the ridge.
The route up to the shoulder looks tough, but is mainly class 2.	Ali makes his way up to the shoulder.	Now we come up the class 4 ramp; this is the “crux” as defined by DPS, but really the next move is harder.
West Northgate in back; I’m wearing my favorite woman’s shirt.	Ali catches me restacking the rope after a belay.	This is the famed horizontal tree. There are two creepy sections after this.
There is a nice finger crack here, visible at left. You try to put your feet on the rock fairly high up, and sidle across. I may put a handline across here. The crack is not continuously open, and the best handhold is not entirely visible from below.	South Guardian.
	Ali on the top ridge, view NNE.	Guess who?
	View S; don’t know why it was so blurry.
South Guardian Angel.	Ali comes across the tricky finger crack area. Unfortunately, bees were swarming over the chamisa!	This is a tough steep ramp below the finger crack traverse. I put up a handline for the way down.
Out-of-sequence pic of me on the last 45 degree ramp.	Ali on the 1^st rap. (He stopped so I could take the shot… it’s not a good idea to take photos while doing a fireman’s belay.)	Ali on the 2^nd rap.
View to West Northgate.	Ali’s view of me, a short ways NNE of the class 4 ramp.	My view of Ali, a bit farther out.
Ali comes down the shoulder.	Spiderwort.	Fire Chalice.
We met some pleasant French folks on the viewpoint.		Primrose, closing shop for the day.
Pine Creek Peak, near Wildcat TH.