Sugarloaf PEAK and Boundary Cone, AZ

Courtney Purcell called this Sugarloaf PEAK in his book "Rambles and Scrambles," to distinguish it from the non-descript, class 1 "Sugarloaf Mountain" about 2 miles SW (the "mountain" is named on USGS maps.) I would recommend reading the description in CP's book. The location of the BOTTOM of the "Magic Chute": 35.2270157,  -114.4095785 (WGS84).  Look for a chute with a few trees/tall bushes in it. At the top of the chute, the mountain opens up to the S; there was (in 2017) a cairn marking the base of a wall (to the north of the cairn); else you can go up the tight chimney NW of the wall (back toward the chute). From there on are sparse cairns.  You should never have to do anything worse than class 3 with exposure and slippery rock.

Harlan WS

February 24, 2017

00map
Location map.  Both
peaks can be done as
a dayhike from Vegas,
if you are in decent shape.
Be warned that it may take
well over an hour to drive
between them.
0map
The hike to Sugarloaf
starts on very eroded
spur off the old Kingman
Highway.
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Leave the spur road
for the gully/wash
to N
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View SSE down
the wash
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After the saddle,
head NE to the
base of the
Magic Chute
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The toughest part
of the chute is near
the base, where there
are a few big boulders
and loose debris. The
trees in the chute are
scrub oak, catclaws
and juniper.
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View back NW;
the top of the chute
is just R of the
pinnacle at L.
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The top had at least
15 old champagne
or spumanti bottles
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View N as Tracy
comes up
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View NW over
Lake Mojave to
Potosi
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View mainly SE
from summit
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Boundary Cone
is the dominant
peak at L,
2nd ridge.
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Our cars
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A chute near
the summit (on W
side).  I'm looking
up, so it is steeper
than it seems.
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View S
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another chute
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This a semi-crux
right above the tight
chimney, and to NE;
the base is flared,
tougher for short folk
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View back down
through Magic
Chute, just before
tight chimney
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Tracy struggles to
push his 6'7"
frame through
the tight chimney
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View NW from
inside tight chimney
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View back to NE
as we head down
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Tracy had get back
home, so Anji and I
went around to
Boundary Cone. We
reached the summit in
less than an hour.
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The cone as seen
from the N. One
heads up the talus
sunlit slope to the
saddle. then L
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View W, just
above saddle
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Near top is a
vertiginous view
on SE side
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View ~N to
Battleship
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View S
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View ESE
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Back down, carefully
avoiding fallen "buds"
from jumping cholla
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This is the class 3
crux, again steeper
than it looks
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