White Rock Canyon & Fortress Buttes, AZ

White Rock Canyon Peak & Fortress Buttes, AZ

I became a peakbagger stalker, unintentionally. My initial intent was to fix an anchor on Castle Tower. But as I came over Railroad Pass, I could see snow on my goal. So I headed down to these peaks in AZ, near Hoover Dam and visible on the main trail to Arizona Hot Springs. I didn't know White Rock Canyon Peak/Butte (WRCP or WRCB) existed till I saw the name on peakbagger. While I took a difficult route to the summit block of WRCP, it looks like there is a class 2 route on the SW. The summit block of WRCP is girdled by cliffs 40-100' high, and has a very committing move on rotten rock (class 4-5). Fortress Butte caught my attention in a 2012 trip, and Branch Whitney has a very nice class 2+ "B" cairned route on the northeast side; but be warned, there are some tecnically easy traverses with steep drops to the east. Both peaks have very crumbly rock and are out of the question on wet days, and will be deathly hot most of the year.

Some hints about summit block of WRCP/B: 1) Don't go with wet or hot weather. 2) Bring a partner, preferably a tall/strong one. 3) Have partner spot you, perhaps even offer a shoulder/artifiical foothold assist. Then belay from 30' above. 4) Don't wear a pack for squeeze move on right side of chockstone. 5) Consider lassoing spires W (R) of chockstone with rope throw-bag, and attaching a prusik to harness.

Harlan W S
Monday, February 25, 2019

Both Peaks are visible from the trail to Arizona Hot Springs. The USGS topo map is quite "off" and misleading	Google Earth does a bit better showing the top of WRCP/B	I'm travelling from the E, looking at the E face of WRCP/B. The route I took to the summit block is direct, but not safe; see photos for class 2.
Fortress Butte, 2nd peak of day	I found this chute on NW side of summit block. There is a very committing move on W side of chute, just below a chockstone. I actually went up the chute twice, and the 2nd, some of the footholds crumbled.	i-11/93 and Tillman Bridge visible to N
Various shots from summit; view S	Fortress Butte	SE, Wilson AZ in back
	attempt at selfie	My chosen rap spot on NW side, about 50'. The anchor was farther back from edge than I would like, and currently uses 4000 lb spliced and sewn Dyneema. The quicklink is small but 5000 lb BS.
Bottom view of rap. On the first pull, there was a subtle overhand knot (see cross-over near top) that tied itself to the quicklink, so I had to climb back up.	The other spot I investigated. Maybe for a taller person (I'm 5' 6"). I started up and the holds broke free, giving me an ultra- cautious downclimb.	R of this potential route is a very spooky drop into a steep gully.
A random spire	This is a mini-arch, and illustrates the fragile nature of the volcanic conglomerate.	View back N as I descend canyon to Fortress Butte. WRCP at left
As I started to climb Fortress Butte, I realized my (light blue) route was unnecessarily hard	A key corner on the "B" route up Fortess. This is the easier of two Branch Whitney routes...	... but still has notable exposure on crappy, crumbling rock.
Snowy Spring Mts	Wilson AZ to E	Fartification Hill
The top of FB is large, I cannot cross oer. Neither have I, wings to fly.		Colorado R
Descending FB		FB from AZ Springs trail. Note backpacker.