Sentiment for East "Face" of Charleston

Pics by Harlan W S
May 31, 2022

Branch Whitney wrote a guide for this route in 2003. Twice I've tried to find it (2010 and 2022), and instead found scarier routes. I think the avalanches in 2004 and 2005 may have altered one critical slot/gully, or it may be that BW's route description, and gps waypoints, are off.


MultipleEChazroutes
Some of the routes near
the "East Face" of
Charleston over the
years. 2010 is here.
In 2003 I was solo
and very lost.
0map0
OK, back to 05/31/2022.
BW waypoints in yellow.
I found landmarks that
matched the early BW
descriptions, and
I think I was right on
top of his 2nd waypoint.
Numbers on map
referenced in subsequent
text.
 0map1
Zoom in last map to
show my wanderings.
When I tried to find
a critical class 3 gully
"40 yards" NW of a
class 2 chute, the
gully seemed to be
blocked by a huge
chokestone.
 1map0
Zoom out for context.
20220531_082133
From near 1, view
WNW. I climbed
that ridge in 2010.
 20220531_082517
Near 2, view
ESE.
 20220531_082817
20220531_083045
W of 2; I'll be among
the cliffs shortly. View W.
 20220531_083338
View S between
2 and 3. I'm fairly
sure this is where BW
meant people to go,
but it doesn't match
the waypoint or
photo. There is a cairn.
 20220531_084949
Fixed 10 mm rope.
I think this is a bail
rope from someone
who go stuck on
descent. I climbed
around it. Still
between 2 and 3.
20220531_090432
The rock at left
match a BW photo.
I found another cairn
on slope to R.
 20220531_091350 20220531_092338
I'm pretty sure this
is the start of the
class 2 gully for
waypoint 2. The
bottom is sketchy.
20220531_093249
View NW up canyon
N of waypoint
ce2. Supposedly
there is a class 3
gully on L 40 yds
from here. I'm guessing
that gully is now blocked.
I went up the next scary
gully, on cliffs that
would probably be
judged 5.2 to 5.6.
 20220531_100059 20220531_111335
Now magically I'm up
near 4 on map. Terrain
still surprisingly rough.
20220531_112743 20220531_112748 20220531_112757
Almost at NLT
(north loop trail).
20220531_115240
5, on NLT.
 20220531_121930 20220531_122431(0)
20220531_122845_Moment
Sports bra drwn in
for modesty.
 20220531_123827 20220531_124916
Now view N to 6,
down Devil's Thumb
Shortcut.
20220531_130456
View S from 6, of
Charleston Peak.
 20220531_131127
gastropod fossils
 20220531_132210
Hawley Point has
only 15' prominence,
and the top is 2' wide.
The left (N) side has
one scary, exposed,
committing move. The
top has a very shallow
horn for an anchor.
20220531_132253
Near 7, top of
Devil's Thumb
viewed to N.
 20220531_132911
Devil's Thumb
viewed to N
 20220531_133004
Rapide barely visible.
20220531_135305
View of Chas to SSE,
~ between 7 and 8.
 20220531_143635
tabulate corals
 20220531_143648
Harris Mt
20220531_143656
View NW from ~8,
 20220531_145203
The Mummy tree, a
dead bristlecone
near 9. The "M" has
been there at least since
1993.
 20220531_151601
Trough at Cave Springs.
20220531_152510
View S to
Cockscomb,
from near 10.