Fire Cliffs HP (North of Lake Mead, NV),
19th stroke anniversary, and the XY cl 3,4 Debate

Pics by Harlan W S
March 08, 2021

I first went up this little peaklet, behind Raven's Balcony in Bowl of Fire, more than 10 years before. It has about 144' of prominence relative to the saddle to the NW, so I was surprised to find it acquired a name and register in 2016.  Ms. XX did a nice trip report on this peaklet in 2020, in which she called the route on the summit block class 4. Then some folks (XYs) went later in 2020, and one called it "just class 3" in his PB entry. More below.

0map0
It was 79F when I got
back to the car, but
fortunately it was windy,
with 30mph gusts.
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Context map.
Grid is 10 km.
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Here are some local
peaks, from about
1 km into the hike.
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The rightmost peaklet
is Fire Cliffs High Point
(FCHP). On this side,
FCHP rises about 300'
above the talus at the
base.
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First, calibration. I went
directly through the cliffs.
This would be class 4
in stable sierra granite; but
it is in crappy rock, so I
skipped most obvious
holds and it was cl 5.
Think I'm overrating it?
Go check it out at:
36.24327, -114.65908
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Looking straight
down route in previous
picture.
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I was enjoying the
scenery so much,
I missed my turn.
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Everywhere there are
delicate arches
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Southgate peak.
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more gentle slots
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Moqui marbles,
weathered out of hard
lumps in sandstone.
I slipped on them.
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I tried the left route 3x,
and the right route 1.5x.
The 1st time up the L
route, a foothold
crumbled and
dropped me 2'.
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Video of my 3rd time
up L side. It got easier
each time.
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Hikers heading to
Raven's Balcony,
just S of FCHP.
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At the NW end of
the "broad ledge,"
view down at my
pack. The 1st
hard move (in my
vid) is behind end
of ledge
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Same ledge, slightly
different view.
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The second hard
move is on the
L side of the crack
near top. I can see
a person's height
would contribute
to feeling safe here.
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I later saw a comment
that the register was in
bad shape, and was
advised to bring a
replacement. Oops.
Just a pencil and a
tattered fragment
remain. View WSW.
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Folks still on
Raven's Balcony.,
view ENE.
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Remains of register. I
unjustifiably suspect
that manic peakbaggers
cause some register
neglect.
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View NE from summit.
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Video of me on
R side, class 3 rte.
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If there is a crux on
the R side, it is this. I
went L on way up, but
the other side on
way down (when
my pants stuck, and I
suddenly remembered
what I didn't like about
this side in 2011)
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Top again,
folks leave
Raven's Balcony.
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My pack as viewed
at bottom of R-side
route.
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View to NW.
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Now I'm almost
on top of the next
peaklet NE of
FCHP. The only
"crux" is the move
ahead; on the way up
a hold broke off and
fell a long, long way.
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From very top of
NE peaklet, I look
back over FCHP.
I know it isn't
obvious in this
photo, but FCHP
seemed higher.
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View ~NE from NE
peaklet
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View of Ms.XX's
route, as seen from
NE.
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View to Raven's
Balcony
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This peaklet SW
of FCHP looks
worthy.
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Now back WSW
through neat rocks.
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Southgate in back
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Flintstone hotel
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Probably just fibrous
gypsum.
I think Ms. XX may be closer to being correct... for the day she climbed. The designation of class 3 or 4 is often a pissing contest; in the old days, the distinction depended in part on whether a fall would be fatal (rarely tested, ha ha). Ms. XX had done the route alone; I can imagine if she had some rock breakage, she would have climbed it cautiously, using harder, safer moves that were less likely to snap a hold. The XYs who followed took her route, knew it worked, knew it had been pruned of loose rocks, and were likely more confident. The first thing I noticed when reading the XYs' full report, was that they had turned back in a valley after coming to "an impassable dry fall" -- I've simply climbed up that same class 4-5 dryfall before. We may all have different standards of class 4, or more likely, what constitutes "acceptable risk" when one is alone or with a partner. Elsewhere, I have seen Ms. XX climb gnarly class 4, as long as it wasn't exposed.

Rock in that area varies in strength from day to day. In 2011, A friend went up a nearby route with a published difficulty of class 3; he had done this route several times before. Here he is at the top, stuck after two holds broke; we ended up climbing above him and dropping down a rope.