Macks Peak Reverse Traverse

pics by Harlan W.S.
Aug 24, 2011

I first went over this traverse with the HLV crowd in 2007—from the other direction. I was curious how my memory held up; and I wanted to do the traverse in the other direction, and prep for some multi-peak link-ups.

Here are GPS tracks for the original trip in 2007 ( possibly the first complete traverse) and my explorations from 2010.	I started in a new location…	…but I’m not sure I recommend this ascent route. There was a lot of side-hilling. I’m about to see if I can climb over the rock on the N end of the eastern cliff.
Oops. I went up to the cliff face, but was unsure of the cross-over.	So I descended and climbed back up the N side. I’m not sure if this cairn indicates a direct route over the cliff.	Staring S from the W side of the ridge.
View back N. At this point I heard a very loud thunderclap. Should I go on?	On the ridge, view N. I saw a tall thunderhead move E, but the storm never materialized.	View ~SW from top of N Macks. I’m heading to ridge on L side; McFarland is just R of center.
View NW toward Cold Creek.	McF to R; I’ve got to pass under the cliff in center shadows.
Now I’ve got to get over or around the Knife edge.		View back N at N Macks.
	I’ve got to get up there.	The very edge often has the safest rock.
But when the knife edge ends in a cliff, I must cut R (W).	OK, I traverse along the slope on moderate slabs.	Déjà vu! Back in 2007, Mark B and I found a quasi break in the cliffs, and descended here. Note the strap in use by the fellow at top R.
About the same place, I found a rope hanging down the class 4 (or low 5) wall. I decided not to weight it till I could see the anchor... and seeing a 1”-thick dead bristlecone, I decided not to use the rope.	View back over traverse.	View S over next lump. Charleston is the peak in middle distance.
	OK top of NEXT lump S, view back N Over N Macks.	Oy! NEXT lump!
Next lump, showing steep edges.
Finally on S Macks summit!
Mummy. I must descend down here.		View N as I head across E face.
This herd path on E face has gotten dramatically over-used in last few years.	View of Sisters as I descend.	View back at Macks.