The Ledges to "Rainbow Peak"

H.W.Stockman
2003-2024

This page focuses on the WEST route to Rainbow "Peak," DOWN over the creepy ledges. Branch Whitney started the "Peak" designation (the summit is called Rainbow "Mountain" in USGS maps). This IS NOT about the higher peak Rainbow "Wall" (6924').

I'm not going to get into the pissing contest about the class of this route. I've been on this route about 15x; 2x in sleet, and weather definitely puts a different perspective on it, when the lichen gets slippery. I've never used a rope for myself. There are no hard moves, but the exposure and dependence on balance and friction can be scary. My last time, a seemingly secure hold broke off on section 1, right above a big drop. So I'd recommend soloists consider protecting stretches 1 and 2.

0map0
We focus on the
red, light blue
 or magenta
routes that come
from the west side
of "Rainbow Mtn"
on the USGS map.
The dark blue routes
are class 3-5, depending
on fixed rope use. Note
the zoom location.
 0map1
This is the zoomed
region, showing the
two creepiest parts
of the ledges; the
numbers 1 and 2
are used in the
photos that
follow.
 0map3
This view looks
WEST at the ledges
route from the saddle
between peak 6800
and Rainbow Peak.
I've taken the green
route, and don't
recommend it
for solo trips.
0map4
This zoom on the
previous photo shows
possible anchors for
a handline on ledge
section 2. (One could
possibly use one long
handline all the way
down the gully from
spot 1, BUT not use
the line in the middle
where the gully is
overhanging.)
 1map6
Another view of
the ledges from
the east.
 1map7
...and yet another.
c1a
View E from top
of creepy spot 1.In the
past I anchored a
line up here, I believe
on the outcrop at R.
At the base, one turns
hard R.

 c1b
Barb and Jodie
climb UP to this
spot. View
from W.
 c1c
Jodie climbs UP
on way from
Rainbow Peak.
View from W.
c1d
View from E, Barb
on an unnecessarily
creepy route below
spot 1
 c1e
View from the NE.
Richard shows a
way to skirt on the
N side to avoid
the overhanging
downclimb at spot 1.

 c2a
Now on to spot 2.
Susan hugs the rock
to climb back UP
to 2nd spot.
c2b
Susan steps across
before climbing up
the gully/chimney.
 c2c c2d
c2dd
Jodies comes
up gully/chimney
 c2e
View of same,
but from "corner,"
as Barb steps across.
 c2f
Barb usually chose
to go directly up
the rock, rather
than take the
gully/chimney.
c2g
From "corner,"
this is Richard
climbing directly
over rock, toward
gully; this is a "bold"
approach.
 db1a
View east toward
Rainbow Peak from
ledges. Note large
"Boulder." The S (R)
route is currently
cairned.
 db1b
On the way back,
you must remember
to climb up a bit
and head SW around
the "Boulder."
p1a
Now for the
"old" route marked
in magenta on
2nd map at top.
View EAST.
Note the directions
on photos.
 p1b
This way used the
"photographic ledge"
to bypass creepy
section 1, on the
SE side of peak 6800.
However, it required
one first descend
a loose gully, and
some found the
exposure unnerving.
 p1c
p1cc
After the photographic
ledge, one wrapped
NE (L) to join the
"new" route.
 p1d
A view from the
other direction of
nearly the same spot.
 p1e