Red Needle, NV

Pics by Harlan W S
March 30, 2020

NOTE: AS OF APRIL 2023, THE OUTMOST AND LOWEST CHOCKSTONE IS LOOSE. DO NOT PUT PROTECTION BETWEEN IT AND THE INNER CHOCKSTONE. At least 10 people have climbed this peak since I went in 2020. As of 2021, there is a green rope hanging down from the chockstone, left/used by 2021/2022 climbing parties. DO  NOT trust it for anything but a direct down pull. This climb now requires some other fairly big protection.

This little peak is on the west side of LMNRA, and east of Las Vegas.  It is class 5, but once past the overhanging crux, it is class 4 with incredibly crappy rock and some bad exposure. There are several ways to aid the crux; I dropped an 8mm nylon rope over a chockstone that was 10' above the deck, and ascended the rope with friction knots. It was quite awkward to get onto the chockstone; I still had one class 5 move, and was "belayed" by my friction knots.

Some thoughts on aiding methods, and the roads are below. This is NOT a volcanic feature; geology is here. Known climbing history is here.

There is currently a GRAY 4000lb test amsteel (braided Dyneema) sling. It looks very thin, but since the ends are spliced at full strength (versus knotted), it is stronger than 1" tubular nylon (climbspec) webbing.  Rodents find it very hard to chew dyneema, but check it before you drop. The Dyneema is UV-treated; HOWEVER, my tests indicate this Dyneema can still lose up to 30% of its strength in 3 years, from UV exposure so it should be replaced in 2023. There is a 4000 lb test rapide connecting the two spliced ends. The rapide is too small for ropes greater than 8-9mm, so you may want to replace it. DO NOT KNOT the Dyneema.

0map0
Context map
0map1
zoom in. LIDAR DEM
adds a lot of detail.
beer
Ah, love in the time
of covid-19
IMG_1933
View of needle
from the east.
IMG_1933IMG_1881
This is the class 4
step; I climbed it
with a large pack, and
descended facing out;
there are great foot
placements if you
look carefully. It is
BELOW the crux.
IMG_1933IMG_1889
Now we are looking
up the overhanging
gully.  Strategy is
to sling the lowest
chockstone.

PROBLEM: The crack
pinches down to 3-4" just
below the chockstone.
Whatever aid method you
use, you will likely need to
climb out of crack before
you can get over the stone.

IMG_1935
I got a 8mm rope
over the pair of lowest
chockstones; my aid was
two schwabisch knots.
IMG_1937
Now I'm above the crux;
Pinnacle is to S, just
L of the wall
IMG_1938
This is the crumbly
gully for the last push
to the summit. Rock is
bad, and there is a big
drop right below gully.
IMG_1939
View back east
down ascent gully.
IMG_1940
View of Pinnacle to SSW
from Red Needle.
IMG_1940tart
Some people said I
"faked" this climb.
Try faking this. Give
me a break.

IMG_1944
Sling left by Adam Walker
and Matt Below, made
from an old climbing
rope left on top. I left a
4000 lb Dyneema
sling.
IMG_1946
View back up crux.
My aid rope is dark
blue at L. At R is 3.2mm
dyneema I used as rap
rope, with supermunter
on a carabiner.
IMG_1948
View on descent,
foreshortened
(looking UP).
IMG_1949
View of Red Needle
from N

IMG_1950
Pinnacle from N
IMG_1951
Red Needle from NNE



Aid
  A very good and daring climber can probably get past the overhang without "aid," but the crumbly rock does not inspire confidence. Here are some thoughts. I had seen pictures of a sling over the bottom chockstone, so I knew it would take some weight. It is wedged in between cobbles in the mudstone, and so far has taken a fair amount of weight; but this trust shouldn't last forever, particularly after a rainy day... YMMV.  To my mind, "aid" climbing involves weighting something that you have attached to the rock, and I don't know of anyone who has lead-climbed this peak by rope methods, without first slinging the chockstone and weighting the sling.
Here are some ideas.

1) Drop a rope over one or two bottom chockstones. This was the method I used. I'm only 5'6", and the entire right side of my body is partly paralyzed, including my right dominant hand. Still I was able to climb about 4' up, so the chockstones were only about 2 feet above my head. One can modify a cheap aluminum extension pole so it can drop a weighted rope over the chockstones; it is important to make a top extension that sticks out perpendicularly and overhangs about a foot, and make the rings that direct the rope as low-friction as possible, so the rope will slip easily down behind the stone. (an analogy for climbers is "rope drag" through carabiners; you don't want that!) I used a 10 oz. arborist weight; I think a 14 oz. weight might have been smarter. I had to reach up and pull that end of the rope down. You really only need about 20' of 8-9mm rope. Then tie your favorite friction knots for leg and harness loops, and ascend the paired ropes. You will get jammed in near the chockstone, and will have to reach left (south) to a good cobble hold, and then must be very flexible to squeeze in, while somehow finding a way to loosen the friction knots. This is the only truly hard part of the climb.

2) If you are tall and have good aim, you can do a "baseball throw" with the weighted rope, over the chockstone. I tried this 3 times, *almost* making it over 3 times! But my dominant hand is partly paralyzed, so an able person would have better "luck."

3) Hoist an etrier. You will need to get a rope over the chockstone as in (1); one side of the rope will go over the FRONT of the chockstone, and one over the BACK. Before sending the rope over the chockstone, tie a directional figure 8-on-a-bight, with the loop pointind toward you, at about the middle of the FRONT rope. Clip a carabiner to the top of the etrier. Tie a loose clove hitch (at least 1" gap through the loops) on the FRONT rope strand, about 18" below the figure 8, and put the etrier carabiner through the loops; it will hang at the bottom of the loops. DO NOT TIGHTEN the clove hitch. Put the back strand of rope down through both loops of the clove hitch, in the back side (BUT NOT THROUGH THE BINER). Pull the back strand down hard, hoisting the etrier to the bottom of the chockstone, with the figure 8 flipping over the far side; pull hard first on the back, then the front ropes, to make sure the knot has cinched. The clove hitch will be remarkably tight, but not failsafe, until you pull the bight around and clip it into the biner. You will need to untie the clove hitch before you descend (start by pulling out the biner). I've tried this many times with the rope over a 10"-thick tree branch, BUT NOT WITH THE CHOCKSTONE.  I highly recommend you try this on a tree first and have a backup.  YMMV a lot.

4) Ladder. Currently one can drive very close to the base of Red Needle. Tracy Foutz initially used a 15' extension ladder to overcome the overhang; we've used that same ladder to good effect in much rougher places ( e.g. here). To overcome just the first chockstone, you can probably get by with a very light single-piece aluminum ladder, maybe just 12', possibly no heavier than that useless rack you were about to bring.

Once you get over the 1st chockstone, nothing requires aid, and the best protection is just to have a confident leader trail a rope.  The biggest danger is loose pieces of crap that will bouce off your helmet. One of the bigger chockstones seems to "rock" a bit, so just test every potential hold about 3x. The rock is so textured and frictional, you might leave the rock shoes in the car and just wear approach shoes (or even athletic shoes) with lugs.

Roads
There are decent roads from both north and south, basically following the Lava Butte Road which is modest 4x4 (really just HC). Google maps will actually route one along the southern access. The trick is when one gets near Red Needle. From the south, the Lava Butte Road runs NE-NNE between ridges for 2 miles, then starts to descend and turns gradually east, then ESE and across the valley. On the right are three smaller roads; the 1st (westmost) has a sign that says "authorized personnel only;" the next road is very steep; and the 3rd is in good shape, has no restrictive sign, and heads very sharp right (west) and up the hill. You are now off the Lava Butte Road and can see Red Needle to the SSW. The details of the roads are in this gpx file. (Right click the link -- or whatever [long press on tablet], to "save link" or "save as.")

Geology

The red and tan rocks are SEDIMENTARY facies of the Thumb Member of the Miocene Horse Springs Formation. Specifically, the lower reddish, fine-grained sandstone/siltstone belongs to the Thtf facies,  and the upper tannish conglomerate, containing cobble- to boulder-sized chunks of much older rocks, belongs to the Thtc facies (both
~14.4 million years old). The relevant geologic map is is plate 1 from USGS Open-File Report 2007-1010 by L.S. Beard et al., currently available from the USGS as LakeMead-of2007-1010_plate1_map.pdf. The topographic basemap is the 1987 100,000 sheet, currently available from the USGS as NV_Lake Mead_321529_1987_100000_geo.pdf. You can use the base map to correlate positions on the geologic map.

Climbing History

Bob Cable and Julia Cronk may have been the first ascentionists in 1999 (Bob didn't want credit for a FA, even though there was no previous sign of ascent), rating the climb 5.7. Tracy Foutz carried an aluminum extension ladder to the base of the crux in 2012, and climbed the rest free. In 2015, Tracy brought the ladder back, enabling Courtney Purcell to climb without other gear. In 2019, Matt Below climbed it by trad methods and belayed and set (?) fixed ropes for Adam Walker. Ryan Cooper climbed by trad methods in May of 2020, and again March, 2021.

Sara Weimar and Dan C Climbed it Oct 17, 2021, using cams. Sara noted "There’s also a weird string up there too that one shouldn’t trust for anything, but I didn’t think to remove until we were down already."  Again, it is 4000 lb Dyneema, as labelled.  DON'T REMOVE it

bob's topo
I haven't been able to exercise much since August 20, when I had a prostate operation. I got a very bad infection, and lost 8 pounds of muscle. Then I had a hernia operation a month before this climb. I'm still lean  (for 65).