Knots for "Smooth Operator" Dyneema Pull Lines; 1048 lbs for Barrel Knot, 1648 lbs for Girth-Hitched Multiple Lines
(7/4/2024 Addendum: How hard is to pull a smooth operator under body weight?)

The idea of the Smooth Operator can be found here. This pic is modfied from the BluGnome website: (NOTE THIS PICTURE DEPICTS THE TIME AFTER THE LAPAR HAS REMOVED THE SAFETY CARABINERS!!) stone knot

These devices are used in canyoneering, either for "ghosting" or just to minimize the frictional wear between rock and rope. Amsteel cords  (8-strand hollow braid made from Dyneema) have been used as the pull line attached to a drilled eye in one end of the lexan "Smooth Operator." The upper part of the rope is looped around a tree, a sling in a hanger, or some other good anchor. After all have rappelled down, the Amsteel cord is pulled, the Smooth Operator is pulled out of the knot, and the stone knot collapses, allowing the rope to be pulled down (without pulling the entire length up and over the rock). The thickness of the lexan on the end of the eye is 0.375", about the same as many carabiners.

Usually the Amsteel cord is 1/8" (~3.2 mm). This Amsteel cord is very strong -- about 2500 lb bs (defined as the strength of cord between two bury-spliced eyes). Knots greatly weaken Amsteel; but the force needed to pull a smooth operator is not very great -- if more than body weight is needed, something is very wrong. But Amsteel is also very slippery, and there are concerns that some knots will simply come undone.

A friend recently bought 300' of Amsteel as a pull cord, and planned to tie it to the end of eye of the Smooth Operator with a barrel knot at the lexan eye. I had two thoughts:

1) How strong would the barrel knot be?

2) do you really need to buy a continous 300' piece? For example, could you get three 100' pieces, put small eye splices on each end of each piece, then girth-hitch them through the eyes as needed?

Below are the two specimens for the break tests, which were pulled between  my jeep and a load cell (linescale 3) attached to a solid anchor at the end of my driveway. The breaking strength of the barrel knot (1048 lbs, 42%) is more than enough for the use. The breaking strength of the girth-hithed sample (1648 lbs) is also more than enough, and the girth hitches are small and unlikely to catch on the way down. [click photos for larger images]

knots
zoom knots


Addendum: Pulling a smooth operator out of a stone hitch under body weight

The LAPAR disconnects the safety carabiners on the smooth operator, then descends carefully, so as not to pull the device out during that last rappel! Before the LAPAR removes the biners, the partners at the bottom try to make sure the amsteel cord will be free from interference with the rap line.But surely you have wondered--what would it take to pull it out as you were rapping?-- say by tangling the Amsteel with your body.

First, recognize that Amsteel is incredibly slick; the surface coefficient of friction is like that of teflon. It takes very tight turns to bring in the substatial bending friction, and make this stuff hold knots.

In the video shown below, I suspend my body weight (149 lbs with clothes and harness) from a stone knot in yellow/red polyester "8mm" rope (Maxim kermantle cord, ~8.2 mm, quite slick). The brown rope is a very static 9mm technora/polyester cord, and has a loop to anchor the stone knot in the yellow cord, plus has a nylon prusik to catch me when the stone knot collapses. This is one of 3 tests.

First I try to make a 2 turn footwrap with amsteel, and push against it to simulate tangling; as I weight the amsteel, it just pulls off my foot. Then I directly pull on the bottom loop of the load cell -- and the knot fails at 54 lbs force. In the other 2 tests, it failed at 48 and 80 lbs, the higher number when I had bounced in my harness to cinch the knot more tightly. In other words, the 2500 breaking strength of Amsteel is massive overkill for this purpose. The slickness likely helps keep a slight tangle from holding to your body, but will likely not help if you got a massive tangle caught in a crack before the rap. For the latter, I've had to pull with full body weight to free the tangles, which could be deadly here.





THE END