Ascending a "4mm" Rope with Schwabisch Hitches The
"rope" here is blueish Marlow Excel Racing line, reported as 4mm (2200
lbs tensile strength), actual measurements closer to 4.4mm; the sheath
is PET and the core is Dyneema. The green cord, used for eye-to-eye
prusiks, is nominally 4mm Spyderline (also PET sheath, Dyneema
core; closer to 4.8mm).
Below is the movie of a test ascent:
Here is how the knots attached to the "main" blue line. The yellow loop
is girth-hitched through the lower prusik eyes, and used for the foot
loop. The upper prusik eyes go directly over a carabiner. Schwabisch
hitches have many advantages over normal prusik hitches: they can be
used on cords of roughly the same diameter, and the hitches can be
released (moved) more easily after being weighted. They can be used on doubled ropes, unlike most
mechanical ascenders.
Why would someone ever use this? Several times we have thrown a thin
rope over the top of a rocky spire, attached the far side to an anchor
and ascended the near side. One spire required a 3000' elevation gain
over class 3 and 4 rock and snow to reach. We had to keep the gear
light enough so a specially-made rope bag could be tossed over the top
of the spire with at least 100' cord. In this particular trip, we ended up using a 6mm line, but the 4mm line was with us in reserve.
Have I tested the strength of this setup? Yes. I only know that pulling
a single eye-to-eye prusik at 900 lbs did not damage or desheath the
rope.
You can get by with traditional Prusik hitches on 6mm, but they are
harder to move, and simply don't work with thinner rope. Note how much
more difficult it is to move the hitch to the foot loop, once it is
weighted.