Castle Tower, NV, 4x in a Month

pics by Harlan W.S., Jack D et al.
Dec 17, 2011 through Jan 14, 2012

 

Nick Nelson first introduced me to this area in winter of 2003. Nevada Bob Greer would come up here, and probably set the original anchor.

 

 

ctmap

Overview map; Lori and I took the red

route 12/17/11; we took the blue route

Jan 10 and 14, 2012.

IMG_0tower

This is from our 2006 trip.

IMG_7107

Lori and I headed up the wash. The Castle

Benchmark is on the domical lump

in the middle; the actual tower appears

as a small nipple in the middle.

 

 

 

IMG_7108

Castle Mountain is at left; the summit

at right is actually unclimbable by any

non-technical route.

IMG_7111

We head up pass the saddle to the base

of the lower cliff band. The

Ireteba Peaks are in back.

IMG_7113

 

 

 

IMG_7115

IMG_7117

IMG_7119

 

 

 

IMG_7122

IMG_7123

IMG_7124

 

 

 

IMG_7127

Lori sets up a great anchor on the S

end of the summit block. It was

40F at most, with a 20mph wind.

IMG_7130

View N from summit. The drop

to the W is substantial, probably

over 200’.

IMG_7132

 

 

 

IMG_7134

Lori put the rapide way down,

so the rope wouldn’t get too

abraded, and we wouldn’t stress

the anchor too much. Seemed

fine by me, but others didn’t seem

comfortable this “right off the edge”

placement.

IMG_7135

IMG_7137

 

 

 

IMG_7138

IMG_7140

This is the “oops” chute. 3 out of 5

times, I’ve been gabbing, took the

wrong ramp, and had to go up this

class 3+ chute.

IMG_7141

Lori skitters down the marbles-on-

cement section below the oops chute.

 

 

 

IMG_7142

Dennis meets us.

IMG_7143

This is the pothole that fractured my

ankle 2 years back. Bad pothole!

IMG_7144

Lori points to “Monkey Fist.”

 

 

 

IMG_7146

IMG_7149

IMG_7150

Birds nest, using cactus to

discourage predators.

 

 

 

IMG_7152

IMG_7400_big-pants

Start of Jan 10, 2012 trip. Gina and

Cory explore the BIG PANTS.

IMG_7412

We head in. All the ladies chose to

wear tights for some reason. Cori and

Gina wore the same outfit to the prom.

 

 

 

IMG_7415

IMG_7418

View back east at the technical

summit to the east. Finally we

take the upper ramp, no

“oops” chute.

IMG_7419

Don’t fall to the left; steep talus leads to

a 200’ cliff.

 

 

 

IMG_7420

IMG_7422

Note Gina’s arm is in a sling.

IMG_7425

Same location as last photo; this is

where the upper route breaks through

the cliffs.

 

 

 

IMG_7426

IMG_7429

View of the tower from the east,

down below.

IMG_7431

View of tower from N.

 

 

 

IMG_7432

There is a very big cliff on R side,

to W of peak.

IMG_7434

Gina directs handline to Fabe.

IMG_7435

Jack does backup for Cory.

 

 

 

IMG_7436
I rapped down, and ran back to

benchmark point to catch others

on tower.

IMG_7441

Gina.

IMG_7442

 

 

 

IMG_7444

Cory.

IMG_7445

IMG_7447

Fabe.

 

 

 

IMG_7448

IMG_7450

IMG_7453

I try to grab some lunch while

the other folks sit in the sun.

 

 

 

IMG_7457

IMG_7460

IMG_7463

 

 

 

IMG_7465

IMG_7467

IMG_7470

 

 

 

IMG_7493

Start of Jan 14, 2012 trip with

LVMC.

IMG_7494

I do the dog trick—rush up ahead to show

the way, then wait for folks.

IMG_7496

 

 

 

IMG_7497

Folks head around the last cliff to the

break-through-cliffs area. I wait for

the other folks. Doesn’t look bad,

but the steep talus at L falls down

to a 200’ cliff.

IMG_7498

View back at impossible mesa.

IMG_7499

Ali breaks through the cliffs.

 

 

 

IMG_7500

IMG_7502

Lynda looks off W side, over a very, very

long drop.

IMG_7503

OK, now I’ve climbed up to the upper

crux on the tower, ready to set a handline.

Bill hands me my pack.

 

 

 

IMG_7504

Folks below, waiting for the good word.

IMG_7505

Folks to N, by the benchmark.

IMG_7506

Dan put loops in the handline,

and guides from just below crux.

 

 

 

IMG_7507

IMG_7508

Meanwhile, Bill and I set up rap. I

rapped down, realized I had left my

pack on top, climbed back up. only

to find that Bill had already rapped

down with my pack.

IMG_7510

Ali heads down.

 

 

 

IMG_7512

Michelle and Eric, with James in

foreground. Eric gets ready to toss

his atc off the cliff.

IMG_7514

I rapped down again. rushed to the

benchmark point and took a few

pics of folks on top.

IMG_7517

 

 

 

IMG_7519

IMG_7522&5

Then I went to a spire S of the peak.

Here Fred D raps down.

IMG_7525

 

 

 

IMG_7528

IMG_7529

IMG_7530

Then Michelle.

 

 

 

IMG_7535

IMG_7535-6

IMG_7539

Then Matt R.

 

 

 

IMG_7544

Then Dan.

IMG_7546

Heading home.

IMG_7548

Back through the break in the

cliffs.

 

 

 

IMG_7549

IMG_7551

IMG_7553

 

 

 

IMG_7554

IMG_7556