Rope and climbing stuff
 If I am going to sew stuff, or use slings that may scare people in my group, I break one or more analogues to quantify the strength. A lot of this is a response to people who make "Yer gonna die!" comments, based on tribal climbinng lore. Part of this work is to understand why some gear failed and caused a friend's death. But most tests are just to break my own gear fear. Some of these tests were statistical by nature, with breaks of several samples.

240322 Hand-Sewn Loops: Break at 196% for 16mm Webbing, 167% for 5 mm Cord https://hwstock.org/rope/dogbone/
240315 Knots for Amsteel (Dyneema) for "Smooth Operator" in Canyons https://hwstock.org/rope/smooth/
240201Titanium vs. Aluminum for rappel devices-- a matter of thermal conductivity. https://hwstock.org/rope/Ti_vs_Al/
231210  Sewn Amsteel stronger than end-for-end splice https://hwstock.org/rope/sewnamsteel2/
231129 Girth-hitched Amsteel Eye Breaks at 77% on Carabiner, 100% on 2" pipe. https://hwstock.org/rope/girth_amsteel/
231027 Strength of sewn loops girth-hitched in dyneema/HMPE  https://hwstock.org/rope/sewn_loop_girth/
231005 Why so much hate for small quicklinks? https://hwstock.org/rope/3_16ths_rapide2/
230909 Abrasion tests on 1/8" Amsteel and PET cord. https://hwstock.org/rope/abrasion/
230829 Rapping and acsnding on coreshot ropes: ATC and mechanical ascender versus hitches https://hwstock.org/rope/coreshot2/
230811 More about sewing cords. https://hwstock.org/rope/sewing/
230719 Dyneema is slippery... but when and where? https://hwstock.org/rope/binerpulley/
230624 The relative resistance of slings to cuts by rocks. https://hwstock.org/rope/rockcut/
230304 Will raps on thin Amsteel Dyneema kill you? https://hwstock.org/rope/willdyneemakillyou/
230221 Critter damage to Dyneema vs. Nylon/polyester. https://hwstock.org/rope/critter/
221031 What happens when you rap over core-shot ropes with Dyneema cores? https://hwstock.org/rope/rap_core_shot/
220806 Would short sheaths make Amsteel knottable? https://hwstock.org/rope/sheathed_amsteel/
220805 Break test of sewn eye in 2500 lb bs Amsteel. https://hwstock.org/rope/sewn_amsteel/
220719 Break test of Trilene "Knot" in Amsteel (Dyneema). https://hwstock.org/rope/amsteeltrilene/
220614 Breaking a 4 mm, sewn, eye-to-eye prusik used for schwabisch knots. https://hwstock.org/rope/eye2eye/
220612 Can an EDK be used to join two webbing straps for an "easy" rap? https://hwstock.org/rope/edk15mm/
220611 Do urethane coatings weaken knots in rope? https://hwstock.org/rope/coatknot/
220608 Amsteel left in sun 3 years breaks at least at 80% original strength. https://hwstock.org/rope/oldamsteel.htm
220608 Titan tech cord (dyneema core): knotted versus sewn. https://hwstock.org/rope/titansew.htm
220507 Can you trust a cord girth-hitched to the bottom biner hole of an ascender? https://hwstock.org/rope/girth.htm
220504 4mm Dyneema and tiny quicklink against 10.2mm nylon dynamic rope: https://hwstock.org/3_16ths_quicklink_pull_test/
220315 Thoughts on butterfly knots and core-shots https://hwstock.org/rope/butterflies.htm
220101 Dyneema Rap Chronicles: https://hwstock.org/dyneema/dnew
180724 UIAA drop tests and "Sharpie" pen middle marks for nylon ropes. http://hwstock.org/rope/UIAA-middle.pdf
160510 Thoughts on fixed ropes http://hwstock.org/fixed.htm